Rose is not just a flower, it is a whole universe in the world of aromas. Its scent is the most recognizable and perhaps the most beloved in perfumery. It can be delicate and moist, like morning dew, or intoxicating and sweet, like Turkish lokum. No perfumery house worth its salt can do without rose. But how do these elixirs come from millions of petals? And why does "rose" in perfumes cost so much?

How to obtain rose oil

The production of rose oil is a jewelery process, almost alchemy. The most common method is steam distillation. Fresh petals (usually Rosa damascena) are loaded into a distillation pot, steam is passed through them. The essential oil evaporates, condenses, and floats to the surface of the water. The output of the oil is minimal: from 3-5 tons of petals, only 1 liter of oil is obtained! That's why natural rose oil is incredibly expensive. A more modern method is extraction with organic solvents (obtaining concrete and absolute). This gives a more saturated, "living" aroma, close to the scent of a living flower.

Main "rose" regions: The Rose Valley in Bulgaria and Turkey

The Rose Valley in Bulgaria (between the cities of Kazanlak and Karlovo) is the world capital of rose oil. Here they grow oil-bearing rose (Rosa damascena), which gives the most delicate, honey-scented aroma. The petals are harvested in May-June, by hand, at dawn, before the sun evaporates the essential oils. The second important region is Turkey (the regions of Isparta). Turkish rose oil is stronger, heavier, with pepper and fruit notes. Roses are also grown in France (Grasse), Morocco, India, China. Each region gives its own hue: French Centifolia — honey-animal, Persian — with a note of saffron.

Classification of roses in perfumery: from solo to chord

In perfumery, roses are used differently. "Solitaire" is when rose is the main and only star (for example, "Une Rose" by Frédéric Malle, "Sa Majesté la Rose" by Serge Lutens). But more often, rose is part of a complex chord. "Eastern rose" — in pair with oud, sandalwood, saffron (Oud Ispahan by Dior). "Spicy rose" — with patchouli, oakmoss (Aromatics Elixir by Clinique). "Fruit rose" — with lychee, raspberry (Lady Million by Paco Rabanne). "Green rose" — with violet, rhubarb (Eau de Campagne by Sisley). Also, there are "wet" roses (with a mushroom note, as in "Rose de Nuit" by Serge Lutens) and "dried" (powdery rose, as in "Tea Rose" by Perfumer's Workshop).

Famous perfumes with a rose note

Classic: "Red Roses" by Jo Malone — crystal clear, as fresh as a cut bud. "Paris" by Yves Saint Laurent — rose in a romantic, powdery setting. "Nahema" by Guerlain — hyacinth-pear, almost sweet. "Une Rose" by Frédéric Malle — earthy, mushroomy, naturalistic rose. Modern hits: "Rose Prick" by Tom Ford — spicy, peppery, with turmeric. "Cloud" by Ariana Grande — musk-coconut, where rose is just the background. "Delina" by Parfums de Marly — peony, lychee, rhubarb, very bright. An affordable quality option: "Tea Rose" — a simple, honest scent of tea rose.

Rose in men's perfumery

It was once thought that rose was a feminine note. But in the 21st century, this stereotype has collapsed. "Rose 31" by Le Labo — rose with thyme, cedar, guaiac wood, very dry. "Oud & Rose" by Kilian — dark, resinous. "Black Rose" by Molton Brown — with spices and patchouli. Men are not afraid to wear rose because it sounds manly when paired with oud, saffron, or vetiver. Many unisex fragrances with rose are equally good on men and women. Moreover, in "red" and "heavy" roses, male components are often used (frankincense, agarwood).

Synthetic roses: why perfumers love "molecules"

Natural rose oil is capricious, expensive, varies from harvest to harvest. Therefore, perfumers use synthetic molecules: phenylethyl alcohol (gives the smell of geranium, but remotely reminiscent of rose), citronellol (pink hue), geraniol (flower-rose). These substances make the aroma more durable and vibrant. For example, the famous "Rose" by Paul Smith is built on synthetic chords. In inexpensive perfumes, synthetic rose can sound sharp, "metallic", in expensive ones, it is part of a complex composition.

How to choose a rose-scented perfume that suits your character

If you are romantic and tender, look for a "wet" rose with fruit notes (peony, lychee). If you are passionate and confident, look for an eastern rose with oud or spices. If you love nature and art-house, look for an earthy, mushroomy rose (such as from Serge Lutens or Aftelier). If you are an active urban dweller, look for a fresh, green rose (with bergamot, tea). Don't chase brand fame, try fragrances on your skin. Rose reveals itself differently depending on the chemistry of the body.

Rose in perfumery is more than just a pleasant scent. It is thousands of years of history, the hard work of thousands of flower pickers, and genius chemical formulas. The scent of rose can take you to a garden, fall in love, calm you down, remind you of something long forgotten. Try different "roses" and find your own.

Permanent link to this publication: